Accomack County

Black-necked Stilt, © Rob Bielawski

The northern of the two counties on Virginia’s Eastern Shore, Accomack and its neighbor Northampton comprise a regional that is geographically, culturally, and biologically unique from the rest of the state. Virginia’s Eastern Shore is a narrow spit of land about 70 miles long jutting off the southern tip of the Delmarva Peninsula. Bounded to the west by the Chesapeake Bay, and the Atlantic to the east, both counties on the shore are physically isolated from the rest of Virginia, which (unless you drive through another state!) is accessible only by boat, or by traveling across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel that spans the mouth of the Bay. This physical separation from the rest of the state, coupled with the area’s overwhelmingly rural character despite its relative proximity to population centers in the Tidewater and Hampton Roads, gives the Shore a certain charm that is appealing to vacationers from elsewhere in Virginia, to say nothing of the many Pennsylvanians, New Yorkers, and Jerseyites who visit here each year. Accomack, which borders Maryland to the north and is closer to Delaware than to mainland Virginia, is a particularly popular vacation destination owing to the beaches at Chincoteague. That said, it is easy for outsiders to overlook the fact that both Shore counties are among the poorest in Virginia. Economic opportunities are scarce, though agriculture and waterborne commerce (both aquaculture and tourism) are important drivers. Accomack also benefits from the presence of large poultry processing plants operated by both Tyson and Purdue, which are major employers locally. The NASA flight center at Wallops Island is also a lynchpin of the local economy, and the rocket launches here can be seen for miles and draw dozens – if not hundreds! – of spectators.

Though today many Virginians may be at best dimly aware of the Shore, this area is among the oldest settlements in Virginia. Prior to European colonization, this region was inhabited by indigenous peoples belonging to the Accawmacke tribe (from which the county ultimately derives its name), a nation which numbers in the thousands and was initially a major ally of the English colonists. The term “Accawmacke,” which named both the people and the region, has been variously described as meaning “the other shore” or “across the water place,” suggesting that the common distinction between the Shore and places “across the Bay” has a long lineage! With the progression of English settlement, the land now comprising the Shore was formally established as Accomac, one of the eight original shires of Virginia, precursors to the present counties. The name was changed to Northampton in 1642, which held until the Shore was divided into two counties in 1663; the south retained the name Northampton, while the north reverted to the old Accomac. In 1670, Governor William Berkeley nullified the creation of Accomac County, but this was reversed by the General Assembly the following year. It was not until 1940 that the county added the “k” at the end to reach its present spelling. Oddly enough, the town of Accomac (the county seat) retained the original spelling – no doubt a source of confusion to many!

Accomack County encompasses 1310 square miles, making it the largest county in Virginia. However, it earns this title on a bit of a technicality, as 861 of those square miles are water, while only 450 are land. Nonetheless, this puts it at more than double the size of Northampton. Its population is over 30,000, which again doubles that of its southern neighbor. Though it is almost entirely rural and lacks any major population centers, Accomack has fourteen incorporated towns, more than any other county in Virginia by a considerable amount. The major thoroughfare in the county is US 13, which runs north-south down the middle and continues through the length of shore, as well as going north into Maryland and Delaware. Ecologically, one of the defining features of the county is its extensive system of coastal barrier islands. Now entirely uninhabited, these islands are a major ecosystem of global importance, and they are significant not least for their seabird breeding colonies and stopover usage by migrant shorebirds. Assateague Island is no doubt the most famous of these, but Accomack includes several other major islands such as Parramore, Cedar, Metompkin, and Wallops. On the opposite side, Tangier Island in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay is important not just ecologically, but also culturally as the site of one of Virginia’s most unique and isolated communities. Accomack also includes acres of coastal saltmarshes such as those at Saxis and Greenbackville, which are important for a number of species including steeply declining birds such as Saltmarsh Sparrow and (perhaps formerly) Black Rail.

Given this impressive natural heritage, it is perhaps not surprising that Accomack has something of a reputation as a birder’s paradise. This is driven, in no small part, by the national prominence of Chincoteague NWR as one of the major birding locations on the continent. Chincoteague draws thousands of visiting birders each year, making it not merely a major Virginia or even Mid-Atlantic hotspot, but truly something transcendent – this is evident in the eBird data, where Accomack’s 41,000+ checklists put it fourth only to Prince William, Virginia Beach, and Fairfax, all major population centers that dwarf Accomack. Likewise, the species list here is impressive – 388 in eBird, putting it third for the state, with some historical records almost certainly not represented in the database. As a testament to its legendary birding status, Chincoteague NWR has a species total in eBird of 342, a number that accounts for the majority of the county’s species and likely outstrips plenty of Virginia birders’ state lists! Chincoteague also has a storied birding past, playing host to famous birders including Rachel Carson in the years before she published Silent Spring, and Claudia Wilds, who literally wrote the book on birding sites in the Mid-Atlantic, and in many ways put Chincoteague on the map for birders.

Chincoteague can be hit or miss on any given day, but a trip to Accomack would be incomplete without a visit. This is a four-seasons birding spot, and one that can scarcely be covered in a single day. The Refuge itself includes miles of trails traversing coastal marshes, tidal lagoons, woodlands, and beach fronting the Atlantic. In the winter months, waterfowl are one of the major draws here, and it is possible to record two dozen species on the right day. The pools on the Wildlife Loop (accessible by automobile) and at Swan Cove are often blanketed with Mallard, American Black Ducks, American Wigeons, Northern Shovelers, Northern Pintails, Green-winged and Blue-winged Teal, Ring-necked Ducks, Gadwall, and Ruddy Ducks. Eurasian Wigeon is regular here, and it is often possible to find several individuals in a given winter. Swan Cove, closer to the ocean, typically adds Bufflehead, Red-breasted Merganser, and others to the mix, while seawatching from the beach will almost certainly net scoters, loons, gannets, grebes, and more. Walking the beach can be productive, with Snow Buntings regular and Snowy Owls slightly less so in winter, and Sooty or Great Shearwaters sometimes blown in on easterly winds. Waders are common here, foraging in the marshes as well as in the ditches along the main road. Great Blue, Little Blue, and Tricolored Herons, as well as Cattle, Snowy, and Great Egret, and White and Glossy Ibis, are regular at almost all times of year. Rarities including White-faced Ibis (semi-regular), as well as Gray Heron, Little Egret, and the African subspecies of Great Egret have been reported. Gulls and terns are also in evidence here, with all regularly-occurring species recorded frequently, as well as rarities including Black-headed and Franklin’s Gulls, and Virginia’s only Elegant and White-winged Terns. Chincoteague is also a haven for migrant shorebirds, including rarities such as Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits, and also has breeding Piping Plovers.

Off the Refuge, the area around Chincoteague Island are likewise excellent for birding. The Chincoteague Island Nature Trail is a public walking trail through woodland and swamp habitats, with specialty species including Brown-headed Nuthatch and Red-headed Woodpecker. Chincoteague Road (175) is the only road onto the island, and it passes through extensive marshes that are birdable from several pull-offs. Waders are abundant here, with hundreds of herons, egrets, and ibises visible at any given time. Shorebirds forage close to the road, and Black-necked Stilts are a conspicuous presence during the breeding season. The boat ramp at Queens Sound provides one good viewing spot, from which it is possible to scope ducks or waders. Gull-billed Terns sometimes nest nearby, and the oyster beds that are viewable from the boat ramp often draw gulls and shorebirds. The road also runs past NASA’s Wallops Flight Facility, which is not accessible but has sprawling open areas that are attractive to Northern Harriers, and more rarely Short-eared Owls or Rough-legged Hawks.

While Chincoteague may be the star of the show, it is not the only birding destination Accomack has to offer. Other locations may even outstrip it when it comes to marsh birds, particularly Saxis WMA and Greenbackville, both of which provide easy access to extensive saltmarshes. Here, you will see many of the same waders as at Chincoteague, and you can also often get good looks at Seaside, Saltmarsh, or Nelson’s Sparrows, depending upon the season. Clapper Rails are abundant and not likely to be missed, but just about any other species is possible. Saxis in particular has a reputation as the last holdout for Black Rail in the state, though this species is rarely reported anymore. In winter, Short-eared Owls can also be seen cruising over the marshes at Saxis. The barrier islands, accessible only by boat, are another excellent birding destination for those inclined to make the trip. During the nesting season, the islands are home to colonies of Common, Least, and Gull-billed Terns, as well as Piping Plovers. They are also the only nesting area in Virginia for Wilson’s Plover, which are low-density nesters on several islands including Metompkin. In migration, the barrier marshes and lagoons are a haven for thousands of shorebirds of nearly every imaginable species; even the less-common ones such as Red Knot can be seen by the hundreds or thousands. Some shorebirds remain out here in fall and into winter, including a small wintering population of Long-billed Curlews.

In winter, driving backroads in extreme northwestern Accomack is a good way to encounter sizable goose flocks that are well worth working. The Tyson plant in Temperanceville attracts hundreds, if not thousands, of gulls that almost surely include a rarity or two, but viewing here can be tricky if not impossible. Another worthwhile spot to visit is Mutton Hunk Fen NAP, which has an extensive system of trails through marshes, woodlands, and scrub. The latter habitat is the most extensive, and this is an excellent spot to hear the songs of breeding Northern Bobwhites, Yellow-breasted Chats, Prairie Warblers, Field Sparrows, and others. In migration, this can be a sparrow haven and a good place to seek less-common species such as White-crowned or Vesper. The rarity potential here is somewhat untapped, but nonetheless ample – one record of note is Loggerhead Shrike, a species almost unrecorded on the Shore. For those willing to make the trek, Tangier Island is accessible only by taking the ferry from Onancock (or Crisfield, Maryland), but it is a truly unique place that has excellent birding. Finally, a word must be said for pioneering. Despite Accomack being one of the most-birded counties in Virginia, its data is heavily tilted towards Chincoteague. There is much pioneering yet to be done, particularly in the rarely-birded southern part. Driving rural roads, checking edges and woodlots, exploring neglected town parks, and any number of others things has significant potential to turn both locally uncommon species and statewide rarities.

Though Northampton gets the lion’s share of the reputation as a rarity magnet, Accomack is no slouch in this department. First-state records from here include Mountain Plover, Chestnut-collared Longspur, American Flamingo, Eurasian Marsh-Harrier, Snowy Plover, Little Egret, White-winged Tern, Elegant Tern, White-crowned Pigeon, Black-tailed Godwit, Bar-tailed Godwit, Bermuda Petrel, Gray Heron, and Couch’s Kingbird. Other records of note are numerous, and include Black Rail, Red-cockaded Woodpecker, Black-billed Magpie, Brewer’s Blackbird, Sprague’s Pipit, Northern Shrike, Sabine’s Gull, South Polar Skua, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Northern Wheatear, Black-headed Grosbeak, Sage Thrasher, Cinnamon Teal, Ash-throated Flycatcher, LeConte’s Sparrow, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Bullock’s Oriole, Common Murre, Tufted Duck, Purple Gallinule, Magnificent Frigatebird, Reddish Egret, Varied Thrush, Swainson’s Hawk, Curlew Sandpiper, White-cheeked Pintail, Trindade Petrel, While-tailed Tropicbird, Vermilion Flycatcher, Arctic Tern, Yellow Rail, Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, Roseate Spoonbill, Western Grebe, White-faced Ibis, Brown Booby, Garganey, Ruff, Roseate Tern, and Franklin’s Gull.

—Matt Anthony

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