City of Portsmouth

American Avocet, © Max Nootbaar

With over 96,000 people packed into just 33 square miles on the west bank of the Elizabeth River, Portsmouth is a densely populated urban center and one of the major cities of the Hampton Roads region. It may also be a leading contender for the most aptly-named locality in the state, as its one salient feature is a long history as a major port. The first European to explore present-day Portsmouth was Captain John Smith in 1608, and by 1620 its potential as a shipbuilding site was recognized by John Wood, who petitioned for a received a land grant, thus beginning settlement of the area. The site that is now Portsmouth was first patented by Captain William Carver, but he was hanged for his role in Bacon’s Rebellion, and the site was not re-patented until 1716 by Col. William Crawford, who finally founded the Town of Portsmouth (named for the town in England) in 1752. By 1767, Andrew Sprowle finally realized this region’s seafaring potential by establishing Gosport Shipyard just beyond the town limits. Owing to its strategic position at the mouth of Hampton Roads, as well as its substantial shipyard at Gosport, Portsmouth played an important role in the Revolutionary War. Sprowle was a Tory, and was driven from the shipyard by American forces in 1776; however, in 1779 the shipyard was recaptured and burned by the British. In 1781, during the waning days of the war, Benedict Arnold captured and fortified Portsmouth, and it was here that Lord Cornwallis staged his troops before relocating to Yorktown, the site of his ultimate defeat.

After the war, Portsmouth continued to expand as a major port and shipbuilding site, beginning with the annexation by the town of Gosport Shipyard. In 1798, the frigate Chesapeake was built at Gosport, inaugurating a long history of Navy shipbuilding at this site (which would be renamed the Norfolk Naval Shipyard in 1862). Portsmouth continued to grow during the 19th century, becoming the seat of Norfolk County in 1801. From 1827-1830, the Portsmouth Naval Hospital was constructed; still operating today, it is the oldest facility of its kind in the United States. The city’s prosperity was interrupted by a devasting yellow fever epidemic in 1855, which ultimately killed a third of the populations of Portsmouth and Norfolk. Compounding its woes, the city’s strategic importance made it a target of wartime operations during the Civil War, and the shipyard was burned twice (once by Union and once by Confederate forces) during the war. During the 20th century, the city rode a boom-and-bust cycle that was largely tied to the shipbuilding industry. World War I and especially World War II were boom times, with the city reaping the benefit of wartime increases in production. By the end of the 20th century, however, Portsmouth was suffering from the same woes as many other post-industrial cities. Though the Naval shipyard remains a significant driver of the economy, modern Portsmouth has tried to diversify and pursue urban renewal projects.

Despite its heavily urban landscape, Portsmouth offers some of the best birding in the state. For most Virginia birders, this city is likely synonymous with Craney Island. A 2500-acre trapezoid jutting out into Hampton Roads, Craney is an Army Corps of Engineers site for deposited dredged material from the Hampton Roads harbor. Its expansive series of dredge cells, with fluctuating water levels and huge mudflats, is a haven for shorebirds and waterfowl that is possibly unparalleled on the East Coast. During shorebirds migration, hundreds of thousands of birds and dozens of species pass through Craney. Peeps are present in stunning abundance, and even typically uncommon species like White-rumped Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, Wilson’s Phalarope, and Red-necked Phalarope are present in shocking concentrations. American Avocets congregate here by the hundreds, with some lingering throughout the year, while Black-necked Stilts are abundant and gregarious breeders. Rare shorebirds of almost any imaginable kind have been found here over the years. In winter, the spectacle of migrating shorebirds is replaced by bountiful congregations of waterfowl that are possibly rivaled only by Chincoteague for sheer abundance. Nearly every regular winter waterfowl species is represented, and rarities including Eurasian Wigeon and Common Teal are present almost every year. Least Terns are frequent nesters, and other species including Gull-billed and Black are present in the summer either foraging in the cells or loafing on mudflats. Summer also brings impressive groups of wading birds, with the possibility for rarities including Reddish Egret, Roseate Spoonbill, and Little Egret. Though known primarily for waterbirds, Craney also has an impressive track record with passerines; grassy slopes on the west side harbor an assortment of sparrows, as well as field birds such as meadowlarks, Dickcissels, and others. With 290 species reported to eBird, Craney is the undisputed king of Portsmouth birding; it has over 100 more species than the second-ranked hotspot, and is one of the premier birding destinations in the state. Unfortunately, the active dredging operations at Craney make access difficult, and birding there has been a series of ups-and-downs over the years, ranging from carte blanche access to near-total restrictions. At present, birding is mostly limited to weekly surveys by a designated team, with occasional organized trips at the discretion of the Corps.

Taking Craney out of the equation, Portsmouth birding is considerably more constrained, but not without its merits. The second-ranking hotspot is Hoffler Creek Wildlife Preserve, which is located just a stone’s throw to the west of Craney. The defining characteristic of this public park is Lake Ballard, a large freshwater lake ringed by mostly pine (with some mixed) woods, and traversed by a series of trails. In winter, Hoffler Creek can be an excellent place for waterfowl, especially dabbling ducks, and at times it has attracted large rafts of American Wigeon with as many as four Eurasian Wigeon with them. Other species commonly encountered here include Gadwall, Green-winged Teal, Northern Shoveler, and several species of Aythya ducks. The woods around the lake are good for passerines, and can be productive for migrants (something which Craney is less-good for). In winter, this is a fine place to seek out the winter woodland suite, and it is not unusual to find overwintering passerines such as Blue-headed Vireo or Black-and-white Warbler. There are a few vantage points of Hoffler Creek, a tidal creek that can be a good place to spot Yellow-crowned Night-Herons and occasionally other waders.

The other prominent hotspot is Paradise Creek Nature Park, located in the extreme southeastern corner of the city at the junction of Paradise Creek and the Elizabeth River. This park was created and is maintained as part of the Elizabeth River Project’s initiate to restore the urban river. As such, it contains an extensive interpretive trail system covering two miles through mixed habitats including revitalized forests, wildflower meadows, and coastal saltmarshes. This is quite possibly the best place in the city to search for migrating passerines, and even uncommon species such as Yellow-throated Vireo, Blackburnian Warbler, Tennessee Warbler, and Warbling Vireo have been sighted here in the past. The meadows here are one of the better places to look for open country birds in a city with relatively little field habitat, and some of the species reported including Vesper Sparrow, Bobolink, and Northern Bobwhite. With easy access to the marshes, this is a great place to try for rails, sharp-tailed sparrows, and American Bittern, all of which have been reported at various times. Finally, don’t neglect the potential for rarities in fall and winter. With plenty of riparian tangles, this spot could easily harbor something exciting; previously, it has hosted multiple wintering Painted Buntings, and it is not a stretch to think that something even rarer could find refuge here.

These sites represent the star attractions for Portsmouth, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t pioneering left to be done. The downtown area along the Elizabeth River is poorly birded, but surely holds some surprises. Portsmouth City Park, a neatly-landscaped urban park, provides easy access to the Elizabeth River, and could be a fine spot to post up and look for gulls, terns, and other waterbirds. Other parks along the river or its tributaries, such as Owens Creek Park, Scotts Creek Park, and Bruce Johnson Memorial Park are rarely birded, but offer the right set-up of waterside green space to attract something special! While there is surely temptation to only make the trek for the semi-annual Craney trip, or perhaps hit one of the other two banner hotspots, Portsmouth certainly might reward diligent exploration by eager birders.

Any account of birding in Portsmouth would be remiss without including mention of the numerous rarities the city has hosted over the years, including several first state records. Some of the highlights include Virginia’s only Red-necked Stint, Heermann’s Gull, Mottled Duck, and Terek Sandpiper, as well as “lesser” goodies including Sage Thrasher, Little Egret, Black Rail, Roseate Tern, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Rock Wren, Western Grebe, Little Gull, Roseate Spoonbill, Reddish Egret, Curlew Sandpiper, White-winged Crossbill, Common Redpoll, Western Grebe, Brewer’s Blackbird, Northern Goshawk, Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, Franklin’s Gull, Black-headed Gull, Rough-legged Hawk, Wilson’s Plover, Snowy Owl, and Monk Parakeet.

—Matt Anthony

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