Chincoteague. Arguably no birding location in Virginia surpasses it for its storied history, its seminal importance to regional natural history, and its reputation as one of the great birding hotspots of the Mid-Atlantic, the East Coast, and perhaps the entire country. Doubtless few sites in the state attract more birders from far and wide, and certainly few can match it in terms of the sheer diversity of habitat and species present. Yet Chincoteague also transcends its legendary status in the birding world; the Fish & Wildlife Service touts it as “one of the most visited refuges in the United States,” and its combination of breathtaking beauty, unsurpassed wildlife watching opportunities, and abundant recreational offerings have delighted thousands. From a birding standpoint, of course, Chincoteague can also be a fickle mistress; many is the time when this writer has made the trek out, driven what seems an interminable stretch of US 13, only to arrive and find the area devoid of birds. Yet even those of us who have been burned a time or two will admit (perhaps grudgingly) that for the sheer boundless possibilities, this site surely has no equal. A trip to Chincoteague may prove fruitless, but it is the excitement of what lies around the next corner, what awaits us on the next visit, that keeps birders coming back. And with an eBird hotspot total of 342 species – higher than many birders’ state lists! – not to mention a roster of rarities spanning decades, and including such goodies as Black-billed Magpie, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Chestnut-collared Longspur, American Flamingo, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, White-winged Tern, Elegant Tern, White-cheeked Pintail, Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits, White-crowned Pigeon, and Garganey, it is no wonder that birders keep coming back! Truly anything is possible here.
Any discussion about Chincoteague would be woefully incomplete without both some basic history, as well as some geography to orient the reader. Chincoteague occupies a unique place in Virginia birding for the long-standing tradition of natural history as well as its connection to some of the pioneering moments in American birding and environmentalism. To begin with, it merits a mention that Chincoteague NWR is massive. The refuge encompasses over 14,000 acres of land, including beach and dune, tidal marshes, and woodlands. Though most of the refuge, including the majority of frequently-visited areas, is located on the Virginia portion of Assateague Island, it also includes over 400 acres each on Morris Island, Wildcat Marsh on the north end of Chincoteague Island, and the Maryland side of Assateague; it also extends south to include all or part of Metompkin, Cedar, and Assawoman Islands. Perhaps Chincoteague was fated to become a legendary birding destination, as birds were inextricably intertwined with the refuge from its very inception. Chincoteague Refuge was created in 1943 for the express purpose of protecting habitat for migratory birds, particularly Snow Geese, which still visit the refuge en masse, to the delight of birders. Today, the refuge is frequented by beachgoers, as well as folks hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous (if ecologically problematic) Chincoteague wild ponies, but conservation and wildlife management still remain a core part of the refuge’s management philosophy.
Natural history and environmentalism have long been at the heart of Chincoteague, and the refuge is connected to some watershed people and moments in both environmental and birding history. In the 1940s, no less a towering figure than Rachel Carson, whose Silent Spring (1963) is often credited with kicking off the American environmental movement, spent time at Chincoteague as a Fish & Wildlife Service employee. Carson, who was both a knowledgeable biologist and a gifted writer, helped articulate Chincoteague’s importance for migratory birds in her 1947 pamphlet Chincoteague: A National Wildlife Refuge. Several decades later, another woman scientist played an outsized role in cementing Chincoteague’s status as a birding mecca. For birders fortunate to have known her (and even those of us who weren’t), Claudia Wilds was a towering figure who did much to pioneer some of the most advanced frontiers of field identification while simultaneously working tirelessly as a birding educator and popularizer. Indeed, for birders of a certain era, her Finding Birds In The National Capital Area was an entrée to many of the birding hotspots in the Maryland/Virginia/DC area that have gone on to become community touchstones. Not coincidentally, she was one of the main figures who helped put Chincoteague on the map from a birding perspective. Through her detailed, meticulous, and careful shorebird surveys, later compiled and edited in a Virginia Society of Ornithology publication, she produced a wealth of knowledge that underscored Chincoteague’s importance for migratory birds in general, and shorebirds in particular. Chincoteague was also where she pioneered aspects of field identification which, while cutting edge at the time, have now become so ingrained in our consciousness as birders that we often forget they have a history. It was at Chincoteague that Claudia’s careful study of shorebirds contributed immeasurably to our understanding of how to identify Long-billed and Short-billed Dowitchers, as well as subspecific identification among Short-billeds, knowledge which has since been codified in countless field guides and publications. Her discovery of Elegant Tern, at the time a first East Coast record, not only helped brand Chincoteague as a rarity magnet, but also spurred Claudia to undertake a detailed study of terns that remained sadly unfinished upon her death in 1997. Her many articles on cutting-edge birding topics including complex field identification and molt, some of which were a result of her studies at Chincoteague, helped advance field birding and have become an inexorable part of modern birding techniques.
Birding Chincoteague:
As befitting such a substantial site, birding at Chincoteague is extremely nuanced, and any attempt at a general overview will surely only scratch the surface. For some context, the entirety of the refuge tips the scales at 21.88 square miles, a fact which makes Chincoteague larger than all but a dozen of Virginia’s 38 independent cities. In addition to the general refuge hotspot, Chincoteague NWR includes no fewer than 28 distinct sub-hotspots in eBird! Understandably, its large size and preponderance of distinct sub-locations can make Chincoteague seem like a labyrinthine mess to the uninitiated. We endeavor to eventually provide more specific hotspot write-ups for each of these, but the purpose of this description is to provide a briefer overview of the entire refuge, as well as some instruction on eBird best practices.
Upon entering Chincoteague NWR on Beach Access Road, just past the first bend in the road, the first substantial birding location one will encounter is a parking area on the left for the Wildlife Loop. This is a 3.25-mile, paved loop specifically designated as a wildlife viewing area. The loop is accessible to walkers and cyclists at all times, but to cars only after 3pm. This spot is legendary for its vicious mosquitoes and biting flies, so attempting to walk the entire loop is not for the faint of heart! It forms a ring around Snow Goose Pool, a huge marsh interspersed with pools of shallow standing water. On its northeast edge, the Wildlife Loop also abuts Shoveler Pool, a smaller pool that offers more open water. On its western edge, the loop also offers partial views of Black Duck Pool and the back side of Swan Cove. The Wildlife Loop is one of the most frequently-visited and productive birding locations on the refuge, and any trip to Chincoteague would be incomplete without paying it a visit. In the winter months, the shallow water in Snow Goose Pool is a haven for dabbling ducks, and the loop will offer birders excellent views of American Black Ducks, Northern Shovelers, Northern Pintails, American Wigeons, Green-winged Teal, and more. During the spring months, Blue-winged Teal are quite common – if inconspicuous – among the marsh grass, and Garganey has been recorded here three times (twice in May, once in September).
The shallow water and mudflats in Snow Goose Pool also make this one of the best locations on the refuge for migrating shorebirds, although the sheer size of the pool as well as the myriad places for birds to drop out of sight among the marsh grass can make viewing challenging. On its western edge, the loop parallels a shallow, wet ditch which often has peeps foraging along its edges. The shallow standing water in Shoveler Pool is also a good spot to look for unobstructed views. On the northern side of the loop, very near the parking lot, there is a short walking loop called the Marsh Trail which takes visitors to a raised wooden platform from which it is possible to gain better views of some of the shorebird flocks. Uncommon migrants such as White-rumped and Stilt Sandpipers, as well as phalaropes, can be found here, and the Wildlife Loop boasts a list of rarities including Sharp-tailed and Curlew Sandpipers, Bar-tailed and Black-tailed Godwits, and Ruff. During the spring and summer months, this area is also an excellent location to search for waders. On most days, dozens of Great Blue, Little Blue, and Tricolored Herons; Great, Snowy, and Cattle Egrets; Black-crowned Night-Herons; and Glossy and White Ibises can be seen foraging in the marshes. White-faced Ibis is a rare but regular visitor, and it is worth carefully checking any large groups of Plegadis ibises, particularly in July when White-faced are sporting their most distinctive colors. Little Egret has also been recorded here, and it is always worthwhile to carefully scrutinize the Snowies.
Finally, though the loop is less renowned for passerine birding, it does pass through tracts of woodland on its northern and southern sides. To the south, the woods are mostly pine and can be a good place to listen for Brown-headed Nuthatches, Pine Warblers, and other pinewoods species. The woods on the north are more mixed, and can be a good place for migrant passerines. There are also some cutover areas on the north side that harbor White-eyed Vireos, Orchard Orioles, Prairie Warblers, Yellow-breasted Chats, and the like. In winter, the brushy vegetation along the edges of the loop sometimes proves good for sparrows, including White-crowned (a fairly uncommon species in Accomack County).
Proceeding past the Wildlife Loop on Beach Access Road, the next location of interest is the Visitors Center, which will be on the left shortly past the Wildlife Loop parking area. The Visitors Center has bathrooms, a gift shop, and some informative displays about birds and wildlife at the refuge. It also has a sightings log which, though less critical in the days of instantaneous eBird alerts, can still be a worthwhile source of information about recent sightings. Behind the Visitors Center is a small feeder set-up which can be watched from inside the building. Particularly on a cold winter day, this can be a good time to enjoy the warmth of the indoors while also checking for Purple Finches, Pine Siskins, and Red-breasted Nuthatches, as well as Fox Sparrows that sometimes forage beneath the feeders. The pinewoods around the Visitors Center are likewise worth a quick check for passerines, including Brown-headed Nuthatch.
Past the Visitors Center, Beach Access Road has a second bend and then proceeds almost directly south. The woods fairly quickly give way to marsh and standing water, with ample shoulder room on both sides of the road to pull off and view. This area is one of the more popular locations for visitors to stop to view the ponies, which are often visible in the marsh on the west side of the road. In the spring and summer, birders can count on seeing Cattle Egrets foraging amongst the ponies. Most other waders can be seen here as well. The pool on the east side of the road is Black Duck Pool. In winter, this area is typically blanketed with dabbling ducks, and it is one of the fairly reliable spots to pick out a Eurasian Wigeon. The road is also paralleled on both sides by shallow, wet ditches where herons and egrets will often forage; sometimes, careful scanning can turn up an American Bittern.
Right where Beach Access Road makes another bend, there is a parking area on the west side for the Woodland Trail. This is a 1.6-mile, paved walking trail through a large tract of pinewoods. Brown-headed Nuthatches and Pine Warblers are easily found here at all times of year. In winter, this is a good spot to search for both kinglets, Brown Creeper, Hermit Thrush, and Fox Sparrow. The woodland trail is also a fine spot to seek out migrant passerines in spring and fall. In recent years, an infestation of pine beetles has damaged or destroyed some of the trees; the resulting dead snags provide habitat for a number of woodpecker species, including Red-headed. For anyone who finds themselves at the refuge on a spring or summer evening, the Woodland Trail is also a good place to hear singing Chuck-will’s-widows – sometimes they can be heard right from the parking lot.
Up around the bend at the Woodland Trail parking area, Beach Access Road proceeds southeast until it reaches the beach. Before the beach, the road forms a narrow causeway with large pools of open water on either side – the pool to the northeast is Swan Cove, while to the southwest is Little Toms Cove opening into Toms Cove. There are several pull-offs along this stretch where birders can stop to scope the birds in both pools. In winter, Swan Cove often has very large concentrations of waterfowl, including its namesake Tundra Swans, as well as large rafts of ducks including American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Green-winged Teal, Gadwall, American Black Duck, Northern Pintail, Bufflehead, Ruddy Duck, and Red-breasted Merganser. Swan Cove is a very reliable spot for Eurasian Wigeon, and most winters there is at least one if not multiples with the large flocks of American Wigeons. Common and Red-throated Loons, as well as Horned and Pied-billed Grebes are also common sights in both Swan Cove and Little Toms Cove. Gulls are also well-represented here; Herring, Great Black-backed, and Ring-billed are usually seen year-round, while Lesser Black-backed is more common in the winter months and Laughing Gulls become abundant during the spring and summer. In winter, Bonaparte’s Gulls are also a common occurrence at Swan Cove, and Black-headed Gull has been recorded here several times.
Though Forster’s are present year-round, most other tern species begin arriving by early April, and Swan Cove is an excellent place to see a nice variety of species. At the eastern end of the pool there is a sandbar that, when water levels are low, is a favored resting spot for terns, gulls, and Black Skimmers. On a good day, you might see dozens of individuals of almost all regularly occurring species: Least, Forster’s, Common, Sandwich, Royal, Caspian, and Gull-billed. Rare species including Roseate, Arctic, White-winged, and Elegant have all been recorded, and it is wise to never neglect a careful scan. Shorebirds are sometimes in evidence here, as well. American Oystercatchers, Willets, Marbled Godwits, Sanderlings, and Black-bellied Plovers are present almost any time of the year. During the winter, there are also likely to be many Dunlin and perhaps some Western Sandpipers or a lingering Red Knot. Both Long-billed and Short-billed Dowitchers are frequently seen here, and sometimes even linger into the winter. Migrating Whimbrel also drop in on occasion, and rarities seen here include Ruff, Curlew Sandpiper, Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwit, and Wilson’s Plover. Piping Plovers nest on the adjacent beach, and scoping across to the sandy banks on the eastern end of Swan Cove is a good way to spot them. In the passerine department, Boat-tailed Grackles are a common specialty species worth mentioning.
Continuing any further, Beach Access Road terminates at the public recreational beach. The beach extends for nine miles south to the tip of Toms Cove Hook, and is open to walk (except for certain areas that are closed off during the nesting season). Chincoteague’s barrier island location makes it one of the few places on Virginia’s Eastern Shore where it is possible to get a direct view of the Atlantic Ocean. The beach is an excellent place for seawatching, and can make for good birding at almost any time of year. Gulls are nearly always loafing on the beach and around the parking lots, and this is an especially good place to see decent numbers of Lesser Black-backed Gulls in winter. Scanning the ocean during the winter months, one can expect to see large rafts of sea ducks including Long-tailed Ducks, Red-breasted Mergansers, and all three scoter species. Northern Gannets can easily be seen soaring gracefully above the waves, and diligent scanning may also net a Razorbill or two. Though the windswept beach can be unforgiving in the cold, it can be good to walk in the winter, as Ipswich Sparrows and sometimes Snow Buntings can often be encountered (but please note that walking on the dunes is not permitted). In years when Snowy Owls are present, the beach at Chincoteague almost always turns one up. Under the right conditions, seawatching from the beach can also yield species more typically found further out to sea. On the right May day, particularly if there are strong easterly winds, keep an eye out for Sooty Shearwaters. Later in the summer, during June and July, Wilson’s Storm-Petrels can sometimes be seen over the waves, and more rarely a Great Shearwater may wind up close to shore. From late July through August and into September, scanning the ocean is also a safe bet to pick up a Black Tern. During the summer, the beach is also an important area for nesting species, and though the nesting grounds are roped off to prevent disturbance, it is possible to observe from a safe distance and see nesting Least Terns, American Oystercatchers, and Piping Plovers.
For much of its length, the beach forms a long, narrow, sandy spit of land separating the Atlantic Ocean from Toms Cove. The Toms Cove side can sometimes offer more convenient viewing, as it is somewhat more sheltered than the ocean side. In winter, Toms Cove affords good views of Common and Red-throated Loons, Horned and Pied-billed Grebes, scoters, Buffleheads, Red-breasted Mergansers, and Long-tailed Ducks, as well as various species of gulls. There is also a large Snow Goose flock that typically roosts on the beach on the Toms Cove side. Generally, there are several hundred or more birds, and with a mix of luck and careful scanning, a diligent birder has a good shot at pulling a Ross’s Goose, provided nothing spooks the birds into flight. About midway down the beach on the Toms Cove side, there is a sandy flat that juts out into the cove and can offer excellent birding when fully exposed. Often there are shorebirds here, and in the winter, this can be a good place to spot Sanderling, Dunlin, Western Sandpiper, and lingering Red Knots or even Piping Plovers. A long-staying Bar-tailed Godwit also spent a great deal of its time in this area. Near the tip of Toms Cove Hook, the beach gives way to a large tract of scrubby vegetation and stunted trees. This area is seldom birded, in no small part because it is a bit of a hike to access, but birders who do make it out will find that in late fall and winter it is alive with Myrtle Warblers, kinglets, and sparrows. Though less abundant than Myrtles, Orange-crowned Warblers can be found here, as can lingering species such as Palm Warbler or Common Yellowthroat. With more coverage this area seems poised to host a vagrant passerine, and it certainly merits being birded more regularly. Keep in mind, however, that from March 15 through September 15 no access is permitted at Toms Cove Hook to protect nesting birds.
While the aforementioned areas represent most of the places covered on the “normal” Chincoteague birding circuit, there is also more to the refuge, particularly to the north. Of particular note, the 7.5-mile, unpaved Service Road stretches north from the Wildlife Loop and provides the only access to the area known as the Wash Flats. En route, the Service Road passes through a nice mix of habitats including woodland, marsh, and open pools of shallow water. Depending on the time of year, areas along the road can be good for waterfowl, waders, rails, shorebirds, and passerines. The Wash Flats themselves, though one of the most remote and difficult-to-access spots at Chincoteague, are an excellent birding location at almost all times of the year. In winter, waterfowl of almost all expected species are present in great numbers, and rarities including Eurasian Wigeon and Common Teal are likely. During shorebird migration the Wash Flats can be one of the best spots in the refuge, with huge concentrations of many species and the ever-present chance for a true rarity. During spring or summer, waders should be present in decent numbers, and White-faced Ibis, Little Egret, or Reddish Egret are all within the realm of possibility. Even passerine vagrants are not outside of consideration here; the Wash Flats may yet turn up a Lark Bunting that forces a great many birders to go for a long walk!
As an important final note, it is worth devoting a brief discussion to proper eBirding practices when birding at Chincoteague. With 28 sub-hotspots to choose from, in addition to the overarching refuge hotspot, understanding how to eBird sightings from Chincoteague can be a very nuanced, even unintuitive, thing. In general, eBird favors lists that provide the most specific location possible, and ideally birders at Chincoteague would start a new list every time they moved somewhere within the refuge, selecting the appropriate sub-hotspot and recording a smaller, complete checklist. The reality, of course, is that many birders prefer not to break a day of birding at Chincoteague into a dozen separate checklists. The general Chincoteague NWR hotspot is provided for birders who prefer to create a single list for the duration of their birding at the refuge. If you wish to submit a single trip list, please use this hotspot rather than selecting a more specific sub-hotspot to record sightings from all over the refuge. To make the general hotspot more obvious for eBird users, it has been rendered as **CHINCOTEAGUE NWR in eBird. Though unsightly, this naming convention assures that the general hotspot will sort first alphabetically, and will be obvious among a sea of “Chincoteague NWR--" sub-hotspots.
Accessibility: Almost as nuanced and complicated as birding at Chincoteague are the complex set of rules and regulations governing access. This section will spell out various access policies and restrictions as well as possible, but it is always best to consult the Chincoteague NWR website for clarification. Access to the refuge requires purchasing a pass, with the exception of pedestrians and cyclists, who are admitted for free. There is a fee station at the entrance that is typically manned, though payment is done on the honor system at times when no staff are present. Common fees include a daily pass ($10); weekly pass ($25); and annual pass ($45). Visitors can also purchase a Federal Duck Stamp for $25, which is valid for one year and grants access to any National Wildlife Refuge. However, it is important to note that because the beach access is managed by the National Park Service (rather than the Fish & Wildlife Service), anyone gaining admittance with a duck stamp must also purchase an annual Beach Parking Permit ($20) if intending to park at the beach. For $80, an Interagency Annual Pass is valid for one year at all federal recreation areas. Senior passes are available for either lifetime ($80) or annual ($20) to anyone 62 years of age or older. Active duty military personnel and their dependents, as well as anyone with a permanent disability, are admitted free of charge.
Chincoteague NWR offers visitors a number of amenities. Almost all trails at the refuge are paved and easily accessible, and the beach is open for recreational use. There are two visitor centers, owing to an administrative quirk arising from the fact that the majority of the refuge is managed by the Fish & Wildlife Service while the beach area is managed by the National Park Service. The main visitor center is the Herbert H. Bateman Educational & Administrative Center. This building provides public restrooms, drinking fountains, a gift shop that includes a nice selection of field guides, as well as various interpretive exhibits about the refuge. The visitor center also has staff on-duty to answer any questions. Near the beach parking area, the NPS-operated Toms Cove Visitor Center offers a bookstore, some exhibits including a marine touch tank, and occasional interactive programming. There is an outhouse next to the visitor center. This is also the only location to purchase an Over-Sand Vehicle (OSV) Permit for anyone wishing to drive on the beach. Parking is available at the Wildlife Loop trailhead, main visitor center, Woodland Trail head, and beachfront. There are also wide shoulders at Black Duck Marsh and Swan Cove that provide room to pull off for wildlife viewing.
Another significant point of interest is the Assateague Lighthouse, which was completed in 1867 and continues to operate as an active navigational beacon. In 2008, the lighthouse underwent substantial historical restoration work. Members of the public are invited to climb the lighthouse for no charge, but the days on which climbs are scheduled vary seasonally, and should be verified by calling refuge staff. In general, the lighthouse is open to climb from spring until fall, but closed during the winter months. On days when it is open, climbs are scheduled from 9:00am-12:00pm, and from 12:30pm-3:00pm.
Several prominent birding areas on the refuge are also subject to special access restrictions. During the breeding season, certain areas on the beach will be roped off and marked with signage to protect nesting birds including Least Terns, American Oystercatchers, and Piping Plovers. Toms Cove Hook is also closed between March 15 and September 15 to protect nesting birds. It is equally important to note that, to protect the fragile dune ecosystem, climbing on the sand dunes is prohibited at all times. The Wildlife Loop, though open to foot and bicycle traffic at all times of day, is only open to automobiles from 3pm until dusk. Vehicle traffic on the Wildlife Loop is one-way, and proceeds counterclockwise. For those considering walking the loop, it is worth mentioning that in the summer months mosquitoes are abundant and aggressive, and packing ample bug spray is a necessity. The most significant access restrictions apply to the Service Road, which is closed to vehicle traffic at all times with the exception of OSV permit holders accessing the North OSV Zone for fishing. Bicycling on the 7.5-mile, unpaved Service Road is permitted only for the first 1.25 miles, at which point cyclists are expected to dismount and continue on foot; this rule is actively enforced. On occasion, refuge staff will conduct organized birding tours which allow access to the Wash Flat by tram, but these opportunities are few and far between. Finally, it is worth mentioning that hunting is permitted on some parts of the refuge between October and January, though never on Sundays. On occasion, certain trails will be closed due to hunting, and it is best to consult the refuge website for the most up-to-date information on hunting.
Further Reading:
Carson, Rachel. Chincoteague: A National Wildlife Refuge. Washington, DC: U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, 1947.
Hinke-Sacilotto, Irene. Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge: An Ecological Treasure. Englewood, CO: Westcliffe Publishers, 2005.
Meanley, Brooke. Birdlife at Chincoteague and the Virginia Barrier Islands. Centreville, MD: Tidewater Publishers, 1981.
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. “Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.” Digital brochure, August 2018.
Wilds, Claudia Phelps. Shorebirds at Chincoteague: Patterns of Migration on the Virginia Coast. Edited by Edward S. Brinkley. Virginia Society of Ornithology, 2007.
Owner/Manager: U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (majority of the refuge); National Park Service (beach area)
eBird Hotspot: **CHINCOTEAGUE NWR
—Matt Anthony