Northampton County

Long-billed Curlew, © Rob Bielawski — **Long-billed Curlew**, © Rob Bielawski

In the late Eocene, a meteor struck the area that is now the southern tip of Northampton County, creating the vast Chesapeake Bay impact crater and ultimately the Bay itself. The center of the strike area lies below the current town of Cape Charles. Thus the unique geography of the county, bounded on the west by the Bay, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, came into being about 35 million years ago.

The county lands have been inhabited by humans since at least 13,000 BCE, according to archaeological evidence. Giovanni da Verrazzano was the first European to explore the land that became Northampton County in 1524, but the Italian explorer apparently did not set foot there. When English colonists first arrived in the area in the January 1607, the southern tip of the peninsula was governed by Debedeavon (“The Laughing King"), chief of the Accawmacke clans who numbered about 2000 people. Soon after settlement by the English, in 1634, what is now called Northampton County was mapped as Accomac Shire, one of the eight original shires (counties) of the Virginia Colony. In 1642, the English crown changed the name to Northampton County, part of an effort to eliminate “heathen”names. In 1663, Northampton County was split into the two counties that still exist today: the northern two thirds of the land took the original Accomac name, while the southern third remained Northampton. Collectively, these two counties are called the Virginia Eastern Shore, as they are not connected by land to “mainland” Virginia. (Indeed, the word “accawmacke” translates as “on the other side [of the water]”.)

For students of history, the county seat of Eastville boasts the oldest continuous court records in North America, including documents on display from the early seventeenth century, and historic homes and gardens are open to the public regularly, especially during Garden Week in spring. Fishing and hunting are popular activities for local people and visitors, and seekers of Native American artifacts regularly find arrowheads, pipes, and other traces of the earliest human inhabitants of the land.

Northampton County is largely rural, economically dedicated to agriculture and aquaculture (clam and oyster farming) and more recently to eco-tourism. Compared to other counties in Virginia, Northampton is the 14th smallest in land area (207 square miles, but much of this area is comprised of bays and lagoons) and 24th smallest in population (12,389), and economically it is one of the poorest. Nevertheless, between the two main incorporated towns, Cape Charles and Exmore, there are plenty of amenities available to visiting birders, including several notable eateries, a very fine winery, a new micro-brewery, and a gourmet ice-cream parlor rated top ten in North America.

More importantly, there are top-notch birding sites worth checking year-round, including the northern half of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, Fisherman Island National Wildlife Refuge, Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge, Kiptopeke State Park, and many natural area preserves and wildlife management areas. Some of these areas require planning and permits (and fees or other costs) for access, but many of the county’s rarest bird records have been found by birders who were just driving county roads, particularly during autumn migration, when southbound migrants are often concentrated in the “southern tip” (from the village of Oyster to Wise Point) area by geography and weather conditions. For more intrepid birders, the county has a coastline of wilderness barrier islands, accessible only by small boat, that host many thousands of shorebird migrants as well as nesting shorebirds, colonial-nesting waterbirds, and saltmarsh species. In contrast to much of the East Coast, these islands remain undeveloped and have been set aside as refuges for birds and other wildlife by state and federal governments and The Nature Conservancy. Thus they remain much in the same condition as when Europeans first set eyes on them five hundred years ago. Each island has rules for access, and it best to consult this map for more information.

Because of the county’s geography, and because of a long history of ornithological studies and birding activity, Northampton has recorded more species of bird than any other county or city in Virginia: as of 2018, at least 415 species, or almost 90% of the official Virginia list. Moreover, the county has more all-time high counts of individual, species than any other. For birders who use the “nearest point of land” rule for county attribution of pelagic records, Northampton County’s easterly position means that most bird records from pelagic waters off the Virginia Capes are attributed to Northampton rather than to the City of Virginia Beach.

Many birders in the mid-Atlantic region make pilgrimages to the county on a regular basis, but most come in the autumn period, from late August through early November, when avian diversity is highest and the chance of finding an unusual bird is also rather high. Some birders chose to spend a weekend or a week, waiting for optimal weather for a “flight” of warblers, raptors, waterbirds or all of the above. On slower days for migratory movements, birders check wetlands and woodlands for resident and migrant species and often socialize on the hawk watching platform at Kiptopeke State Park, the only site dedicated to the monitoring of raptors in Virginia, with continual data back to 1977.

—Edward S. Brinkley

Hotspots

Stakeout Hotspots

The following hotspots should only be used to input historical records pertaining to a specific staked out rarity, as indicated in the hotspots names.

Accessibility & Surroundings

The main thoroughfare servicing the entirety of Virginia’s Eastern Shore is US-13, which runs from the Maryland border all the way to southern tip of the shore, and across the bay to Norfolk and Chesapeake. Travelers should be advised that accessing Northampton County from the south requires using the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, which is a toll road. The rate is $18 one-way during peak season (15 May-15 September), and $14 one-way off peak. If you have an E-Z Pass, return trips within 24 hours come at a discounted rate; otherwise, you pay full price both ways. For a more leisurely drive, VA-600 (Seaside Road) traverse the length of Northampton, beginning at the southern tip of the shore near the Eastern Shore of Virginia NWR and continuing into Accomack County before terminating near Melfa. Birders making a trip up the shore, and not pressed for time, should certainly consider driving Seaside and keeping an eye out for rarities posted up on the telephone wires!

amenities

The main town in Northampton County is Cape Charles, which is located near the southern tip of the peninsula. Despite being a relatively small town, it offers a full suite of amenities for travelers, including several restaurants, a variety of shopping options, a brewery and cidery, and lodging at either the Hotel Cape Charles or one of the many bed & breakfasts in town. Fast food options and convenience stores can be found along US-13. The county seat of Northampton is in Eastville, but there are relatively few amenities here. However, history buffs will want to check out the Northampton County courthouse, which has several exhibits and features the oldest continuous set of court records in the country. In the northern part of the county, Nassawadox and Exmore each have several restaurants, and Exmore has limited shopping. Chatham Vineyards in Machipongo is the only winery in the county. Away from Cape Charles, lodging is available in any of several motels and motor lodges along US-13, while Exmore has several chain hotels. At the southern tip of the shore, Sunset Beach Motel offers affordable lodging and great birding. Kiptopeke State Park also has camping and cabins.

christmas bird counts

Northampton County is home to two CBCs, both of which routinely post some of the highest species totals in the state. The Cape Charles CBC, compiled by Ned Brinkley and George Armistead, is wholly in Northampton and encompasses much of the southern portion of the county. To the north, Harry Armistead compiles the Nassawadox CBC, which includes portions of both Northampton and Accomack.

Recommendations

Cape Charles has a number of excellent dining options. The Shanty has a waterfront view overlooking the harbor, and serves up seafood, pub grub, craft beer, and cocktails. Deadrise Pies serves up delicious thin-crust specialty pizzas. Birders with some extra time on their hands shouldn’t miss the chance to walk Mason Avenue and explore the shops and art galleries here. Anyone who enjoys the finer things may wish to visit Gull Hummock Gourmet Market, a charming shop with an eclectic selection of wines, craft beer, and specialty foods. They also carry a variety of locally roasted coffee from Eastern Shore Coastal Roasting Co., including one of particular interest: their shade grown Mockhorn Bay Birders’ Blend. For dessert, don’t miss Brown Dog Ice Cream, which offers a constantly rotating lineup of flavors ranging from the traditional to the bizarre (but all delicious!), though it is only open seasonally. Buskey Cider occupies a quaint hole-in-the-wall space and brings a variety of ciders crafted in Richmond. Cape Charles Brewing Company is a great spot to stop for a pint or two, and they are also a full service restaurant with clam chowder that can’t be beat! Away from Cape Charles, Yuk Yuk & Joe’s in Eastville is a good choice for quick, cheap, and hearty fare. Machipongo Trading Company, conveniently located on US-13, is a great pit stop for coffee and sandwiches.