Visible from the Monitor-Merrimac Bridge-Tunnel, Craney Island is a sprawling feat of engineering. It occupies a roughly 2500-acre trapezoid of land on the northern edge of the City of Portsmouth, jutting out into Hampton Roads. The land here has been known as “Craney Point” since the time of English colonization, supposedly arising from the abundance of “cranes” that the settlers found here (though birders will know that this in fact likely refers to the many herons and egrets that still call Craney home). In the 1940s, this area was conceived of as a site for depositing dredged materials from the Hampton Roads harbor, a project which finally came to fruition in 1957. At present, Craney Island continues to be an active site for deposition of dredge spoilage, and is managed by the Army Corps of Engineers; though it is properly known as Craney Island Dredged Materials Management Area (CIDMMA), to birders it is often simply “Craney Island” or just “Craney.” Owing to its continued success, extending well past the original life span envisioned for the project, Craney has become a model for similar dredge sites, prompting exploratory visits from project managers within and outside the Army Corps.
Though Craney was, and is, primarily a working dredged materials site, a happy accident has been the creation of thousands of acres of protected habitat for a wide variety of bird species, including several species of concern both in Virginia and federally. Perhaps most significantly, Craney provides a substantial stopover site for migrating shorebirds that is almost unparalleled on the East Coast. During shorebird migration, Craney is a haven for tens of thousands of shorebirds constituting a remarkable diversity of species. Even birds such as Stilt and White-rumped Sandpipers, relatively uncommon migrants in most of Virginia, are found in notable abundance here. Rarer species still, particularly Wilson’s and Red-necked Phalaropes, can be found here with stunning reliability and in impressive numbers. For many birders the twin highlights of Craney are the abundance of American Avocets and Black-necked Stilts that can be found here. Both these charismatic species can be found more reliably and in greater concentrations than almost anywhere else in the state, and birders able to gain access delight in watching their antics. Though avocets are transient species in Virginia, it is not uncommon for some to linger into the summer at Craney, and a pair with chicks documented here in 1991 still represents the only confirmed breeding by this species in the state. Among more regular breeders, Craney can count Black-necked Stilts, Least Terns, and Common Nighthawks, all of which are species of concern or low-density breeders. Other species of terns, including Common, Royal, Gull-billed, and Sandwich (as well as Black Skimmers) are commonly seen here, and Craney is likely an important foraging area for birds from the nearby nesting colony at Fort Wool. Though not nesters, migrating Black Terns are regular visitors here as well, and birders often get excellent views of this fantastic species.
During migration, Craney can boast a veritable smorgasbord of birds; for those birders who are so inclined, the chance to sort through thousands of shorebirds for rarer species presents a tantalizing opportunity. Nearly any shorebird species is on the table here, and uncommon species such as Baird’s Sandpiper, Upland Sandpiper, Hudsonian Godwit, Ruff, and the aforementioned phalaropes are found with varying degrees of regularity. Major rarities such as Red-necked Stint and Terek Sandpiper have also been documented here; nearly any species that could be expected as an East Coast vagrant has a possibility of being found here. Apart from shorebirds, Craney is also a fine spot for wading birds and can boast impressive concentrations of these species in spring and summer. Herons and egrets abound, while rarities including Roseate Spoonbill, Reddish Egret, and Little Egret have all turned up over the years. By fall and winter, these species cede Craney to the scores of waterfowl that spend the winter here. During these times, any standing water at Craney is likely to be blanketed by large congregations of Mallards, American Black Ducks, Northern Shovelers, American Wigeons, Northern Pintails, and many more. Rarely does a winter pass when both Eurasian Wigeon and Common Teal are not documented here, and of course the possibility is always there for other exciting species such as Garganey or Cinnamon Teal. Some waterfowl linger into the summer, either as breeders or simply loafing, and it was during the summer months that the state’s first Mottled Duck was documented here.
Finally, though the focus at Craney is often on waterbirds of every conceivable kind, any description of this birding site would be remiss without acknowledging that it is also a phenomenal spot for passerines. The grassy berms on the west side are home to field species such as Eastern Meadowlarks and a variety of sparrows, with locally uncommon species such as White-crowned, Vesper, and Lark Sparrow occasionally turning up. The lack of much woodland habitat makes this a less-than-ideal spot for seeking out migrants, though the woods near the main offices are sometimes productive, and regional rarities including Olive-sided Flycatcher (a tough find near the coast) have been spotted. In fall and winter, Craney is one of the best spots in the entire state for vagrant passerines, rivaling even celebrated locations on the Eastern Shore; its roster of rarities speaks for itself, and includes such exciting finds as Rock Wren and Sage Thrasher.
Accessibility: No doubt many birders have stumbled upon some of the truly exciting past reports from Craney and wondered how they could go birding here. Access at Craney Island has been a bit of a rollercoaster over the years, with a general trend towards greater restrictions arising both from heightened security concerns and misbehavior on the part of birders. While in the past public access was permitted with fairly wide latitude, these days regular access at Craney is restricted to a few individuals who conduct surveys with permission from the Army Corps. The good news, however, is that the staff at Craney Island are very welcoming and accommodating to organized trips by various birding groups. Typically, there are several organized trips each year, so it is possible to get out and experience the birding here. Generally, organized trips are limited to roughly 30 participants, so space is always at a premium. These trips tend to be about 2-hours in length, which limits the possibility to linger in particular areas. Furthermore, participants are expected to sign a liability waiver as well as abide by access rules provided by the Army Corps. All birders who go on these trips should conduct themselves respectfully and follow these rules, in the interest of preserving the already-fragile birding access. Unfortunately, at the present moment these trips must generally be scheduled in advance, and staff are not able to quickly organize trips for the purpose of chasing specific rarities.
Once at Craney, there are a few things to keep in mind as far as birding access. The site is primarily for active deposition of dredged materials, so depending on where work is being done, certain areas may be closed to birding access. Craney is traversed by a nearly eight-mile road that runs around the perimeter, as well as two drivable dikes which run east-west and divide the island into three containment cells of roughly equal size. Conditions change rapidly, particularly after heavy rain or other inclement weather, which can make some roads inaccessible and lead to cancellation of trips. The Army Corps also generally advises birders on organized trips to travel in vehicles with four-wheel drive. As far as actually accessing various locations within Craney, the staff typically leads trips along a predetermined route, but they can sometimes be flexible about the length of time spent at each spot, the order in which spots are visited, etc. Habitat conditions at Craney change very rapidly and are dependent on a complex array of factors including water levels, rainfall, current dredging projects, and much more. As a result, it is sometimes difficult to predict which areas will house the greatest concentration of birds; often staff will have some sense for which areas have been productive most recently, and it is good practice to seek their input.
Owner/Manager: Army Corps of Engineers; for further information, consult this detailed brochure produced by the corps.
eBird Hotspot: Craney Island Disposal Area (restricted access)
—Matt Anthony, August 2020