Mathews County

Ruddy Turnstone, © Alex Shipherd

At just 94 square miles of land area, Mathews is one of Virginia’s smallest counties, with only tiny Arlington keeping it from the top slot. And with a population of just under 9000, which equates to a population density of less than 40 people per square mile, Mathews is also one of the least-settled, most rural counties in the state. It even lacks so much as a single stoplight! Despite this, many recognize Mathews for its rural charm – no less a celebrity couple than John Lennon and Yoko Ono purchased a historic property in Mathews in 1980 and visited it as a rural retreat from life in New York City in the months before Lennon’s assassination. Though it began as part of Gloucester County, Mathews was separated in 1791 following the Revolutionary War, and named for then-Speaker of the House of Delegates, General Thomas Mathews. Throughout this history, and still in the present day, water has powered the ways of life in Mathews. Shipping, fishing, and oyster farming have long been some of the main industries, though in contemporary times waterborne tourism may be taking its place on that list. During World War I and II, many of the young watermen from Mathews served in the Merchant Marine – at least two Mathews families had seven or more members serving as Merchant Marine captains during World War II! Today, Mathews attracts visitors looking for scenic beauty, antiquing, and local art. It is also the location of the Tour de Chesapeake, a major annual cycling event.

Unsurprisingly, much of life in Mathews – and what draws outsiders – is centered on the water. Mathews County is nearly surrounded by water, bordering the Piankatank River on the north, the North River and Mobjack Bay to the south, and the Chesapeake Bay on the east, with only a tiny sliver of land linking it to the rest of the Middle Peninsula. The county is a maze of coves and inlets, with countless rivers and creeks winding through. Despite its small size, Mathews boasts a coastline of over 200 miles! Dotting this coastline are over a half-dozen marinas, several public beaches fronting the Chesapeake, and acres of tidal saltmarshes. What serves to make Mathews attracted to watermen, boaters, and outdoor recreationists also makes it a prime birding destination. The county is a bit out-of-the-way, sitting well off US 17 and even further from Williamsburg and the I-64 corridor. Nonetheless, birders who find their way here will find much to recommend it!

Bar none, the most prominent birding destination in Mathews is Bethel Beach Natural Area Preserve, which boasts a list of over 200 species. The preserve is deceptively simple, offering a straightforward out-and-back hike of just under 1.5 miles of narrow, sandy beach along the Chesapeake. The narrow strip of beach forms a sand spit at the southern end that wraps around a sheltered lagoon, while in back of the low dunes is an extensive system of saltmarshes. Bethel has a reputation for some of the best shorebirding away from the Eastern Shore, with the beaches, sand spit, and tidal saltmarshes attracting an impression aggregation of species that can sometimes include rarities such as Black-necked Stilt, American Avocet, Marbled Godwit, and Piping Plover. During the winter months, exposed peat outcrops along the shore harbor feeding flocks of Sanderling and Dunlin that may contain a Red Knot or Purple Sandpiper. Scoping the Bay from here is a great way to find all three scoters, Long-tailed Ducks, both loons, Horned Grebes, Northern Gannets, and perhaps a Red-necked or even Eared Grebe. Occasionally groups of Bonaparte’s Gulls will congregate along the beach and in the saltmarshes, and there is at least one record of Black-headed Gull. During the breeding season, look for American Oystercatchers and Least Terns on the sandy spit, while Seaside Sparrows will likely be teed up in the marshes.

At the extreme southern tip of the county, New Point Comfort Natural Area Preserve offers a similar mix of habitats as Bethel Beach, though it is less-visited and has a smaller species list. Nonetheless, this is another good spot to seek a good mix of waterbirds, shorebirds, and marsh birds. Again, scoping the bay in winter is likely to net a nice mix of ducks, loons, grebes, gannets, and gulls. New Point Comfort is every bit Bethel’s equal when it comes to shorebirds, too, with list that includes Black-necked Stilt, American Avocet, Whimbrel, Marbled Godwit, and Piping Plover.

While these two hotspots are clearly the star attractions, they are not all that Mathews has to offer for birders. Unsurprisingly for a county so centered on the water, a full half of the 22 eBird hotspots here are boat landings or public beaches. These provide numerous access points to not only the Bay, but the rivers and many tidal creeks in the county. With quick and easy access, any of these spots can be a good place to seek ducks, waders, and other waterbirds. Passerine birding is comparatively underexplored in Mathews, given the overriding focus on waterbirds. There are few large, wooded parks, but the county is largely covered in extensive wooded land, and some of the best birding can be had by simply cruising backroads with the windows down. On the very western edge, within sight of the Gloucester line, Fort Nonsense Historical Park is a postage stamp-sized parcel of woods that nonetheless is surprisingly good for both migrants and breeders. Road noise is an issue, but during the summer months one can expect to see or hear Yellow-throated Vireo, Northern Parula, Ovenbird, Hooded Warbler, and Summer and Scarlet Tanagers, among others. One habitat type that is sorely lacking is open fields, and species such as Grasshopper Sparrow and Eastern Meadowlark are surprisingly local here. The area near the base of the Rt. 3 bridge, marked “Dixie” on Google Maps, has some of the most expansive agricultural fields, and is perhaps the best place to look for open country birds.

Though Mathews has not hosted any major statewide rarities, it does have a nice roster of mid-level state rarities and exciting regional finds, including Western Tanager, Western Kingbird, Trumpeter Swan, Lark Sparrow, Black-headed Gull, Eared Grebe, Painted Bunting, American White Pelican, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, and Lapland Longspur.

—Matt Anthony

Hotspots

Amenities

Although small and sparsely populated, Mathews has plenty to offer for visiting birders. History buffs, in particular, will enjoy visiting many of the sites showcasing local history. The Mathews County Historical Society is headquartered in Tompkins Cottage, a historic wooden building that dates to around 1815. The Gwynns Island Museum showcases local community history of that enclave, and Mathews more broadly, while the Mathews Maritime Museum focuses specifically on the rich maritime tradition in the county. Another highlight, the New Point Comfort Lighthouse, is the third oldest on the Chesapeake and can easily be seen while birding New Point Comfort Natural Area Preserve.

For those visitors more interested in contemporary Mathews, one of the prominent features is a vibrant local arts and crafts scene. There are a number of small galleries and workshops, but an easy way to sample it is by stopping in at Sibley's General Store. This is the site of the Mathews County Visitor & Information Center, where travelers will find maps and brochures, as well as exhibitions from over 60 local artists. In early September, the annual Mathews Market Days is a popular local event highlighting arts, crafts, and food from the community. 

Mathews has a variety of dining options. Sunrise Pancake & Waffle House, on Main Street, is a good stop for breakfast. Birders looking for an easy lunch may consider visiting one of the several BBQ joints in the county, including Beach Bum BBQ and Cobbs Creek Diner. For a sit-down dinner, The White Dog Bistro in Mathews is a more upscale selection with seafood, steaks, and an ample beer list.

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